Materials:
Size C hook (2.5mm)
1 skein fingering 4-ply weight yarn in green (gauge is 6 sc per inch)
1 skein fingering 4-ply weight yarn in brown
1 skein DK weight yarn in white or off-white (for robe, eyes; gauge is 5 sc per inch)
2 15mm safety eyes
Yarn needle
Polyfiberfil stuffing (or stuffing of your choice)
Stitch marker (some may use this, some may not)
A little wooden dowel to stuff the fingers
Abbreviations:
Blo – back loops only
Ch - chain
Ea - each
Rep - repeat
Rd - round
R - row
Sc – single crochet
Sc2tog – single crochet 2 together (decrease stitch)
Sk - skip
Sl st – slip stitch
TO – Tie off/fasten off
MR – Magic Ring (amigurumi method, alternative is to ch2, sc in 2nd
ch from the hook. I prefer MR, look it up on Youtube! J)
Notes:
·
This pattern is written using US terms.
·
The skill level is intermediate. Having made
gloves or other animals that have toes may help.
·
Yoda’s body is worked in the round. His robe,
eyelids, and ears are worked in rows, where you ch1 to turn after every row.
·
The eyes aren’t attached to the green part of
his head, instead they will be attached to the whites of his eyes and then the
white part will be sewn on. It does leave a bit of backing, but the indention
it makes (if any) will give his face some shape anyway. I suppose it is up to
you how you wish to attach the safety eyes (or maybe you even want to crochet
the black part of the eyes!) so keep that in mind.
·
Please see the very last page for pictures. I
put them all on one page for printing ease.
Head and Body
In
green, MR 8.
Rd 1: 2sc in ea –
16
Rd 2: 1 sc, 2sc in
next, rep around – 24
Rd 3: 2 sc, 2sc in
next, rep around – 32
Rd 4: 3 sc, 2sc in
next, rep around – 40
Rd 5: 4 sc, 2sc in
next, rep around - 48
Rd 6: 5 sc, 2sc in
next, rep around - 56
Rd 7: 6 sc, 2sc in
next, rep around – 64
Rd 8-9 (2 rds): sc
in each – 64
Rd 10: 6 sc,
sc2tog, rep around – 56
Rd 11: sc in ea –
56
Rd 12: 5 sc,
sc2tog, rep around – 48
Rd 13: 4 sc,
sc2tog, rep around – 40
Rd 14-16 (3 rds):
sc in ea – 40
Rd 17: 3 sc,
sc2tog, rep around – 32
Rd 18: sc in ea –
32
Rd 19: 2 sc,
sc2tog, rep around – 24
Rd 20: sc2tog
around – 12
Switch
to brown to now start his body,
Rd 21-22 (2 rds):
sc in each – 12
Rd 23: 2sc in ea
around – 24
Rd 24: 2 sc, 2sc in
next, rep around – 32
Rd 25: 3 sc, 2sc in
next, rep around – 40
Rd 26: 4 sc, 2sc in
next, rep around – 48
Rd 27: in blo, sc in ea – 48
Rd 28-30 (3 rds):
sc in ea – 48
Rd 31: 6 sc,
sc2tog, rep around – 42
Rd 32-52 (21 rds):
sc in ea – 42
Rd 53: 6 sc, 2sc in
next, rep around – 48
Rd 54: 7 sc, 2sc in
next, rep around – 54
Sl st to first st
from previous round and TO.
Insert for skirt (will close
off the torso)
In brown,
MR 6
Rd 1: 2sc in ea –
12
Rd 2: 1 sc, 2sc in
next, rep around – 18
Rd 3: 2 sc, 2sc in
next, rep around – 24
Rd 4: 3 sc, 2sc in
next, rep around – 30
Rd 5: 4 sc, 2sc in
next, rep around – 36
Rd 6: 5 sc, 2sc in
next, rep around – 42
TO. Attach with
yarn needle between the 4th and 5th row from the bottom
of the “skirt”. Make sure to stuff liberally!
Eyes
In white,
Ch 3 + 1 to turn
Rd 1: sc in 2, 3sc
in last, now rotate the work so you are
now working on the other side of it (we are going to make an ovular shape), sc
in next, 2sc in last – 8
Rd 2: sc in 3, 2sc
in next, sc in 3, 2sc in last – 10
Rd 3: sc in 4, 3sc
in next, sc in 4, 3sc in last. Sl st to next st. TO. Leave a tail for sewing on
to head.
Attach the 15mm
eyes to the center of the white piece. Attach white part to head where the top
of it is around row 10 of the head and the bottom of it is around row 15 or 16
of the head. The white parts should be placed about 3 rows apart from each
other. Make sure you make them centered!
Eyelids
In green,
Ch 10 + 1 to turn
Row 1: sc in 10,
turn
Row 2: sk 1st
st, sc in 7, sk next, sc in last – 8
Row 3-4 (2 rows):
sc in ea – 8
To place, attach
eyelid to the white part of the eye where part of it is covering the white and
maybe even stretched over the black safety eye. (See pictures.) Sew on.
Ears
Note:
The ears will be slightly different from each other. This is done on purpose. J
For the left
ear, in green, leaving a long tail at front so you can attach the ear
later,
Ch 6 + 1 to turn
Row 1-2 (2 rows):
sc in ea – 6
Row 3: 2sc, sc in
3, sc2tog – 6
Row 4: sk 1st,
sc in 4, 2sc – 6
Row 5: sc in ea – 6
Row 6: 2sc, sc in
3, sc2tog – 6
Row 7: sk 1st,
sc in 2, sc2tog, 2sc – 5
Row 8: 2sc, sc in
2, sc2tog – 5
Row 9: sc2tog, sc
in 3 – 4
Row 10: sc2tog
twice – 2
Row 11-13 (3 rows):
sc in ea – 2
Row 14: sk 1st,
sc in last – 1
Without breaking
yarn, sc around the ear, making sure you go in each row ending/beginning
around. This will give it a more finished look. TO. Ears are kind of tricky to
attach, so first stitch it on, then you may want to “pin” the upper part up by
anchoring it to the head a row or two above so you can kind of “perk” them. I
attached my ears where the top inside of the ear was around row 8 of the head,
and the bottom of the ear was around row 13 or 14.
For the right
ear, leaving a long tail at front for attaching the ear later,
Ch 6 + 1 to turn
Row 1: sc in ea – 6
Row 2: sc2tog, sc
in 3, 2sc – 6
Row 3: 2sc, sc in
3, sk 1, sc in last – 6
Row 4: sc in ea – 6
Row 5: sc2tog, sc
in 3, 2sc – 6
Row 6: 2sc, sc2tog,
sc, sk 1, sc in last – 5
Row 7: sc2tog, sc
in 2, 2sc – 5
Row 8: sc in 3,
sc2tog – 4
Row 9: sc2tog twice
– 2
Row 10-11 (2 rows):
sc in ea – 2
Row 12: sc, 2sc – 3
Row 13: sc, sc2tog –
2
Row 14: sk 1, sc –
1
Without breaking the
yarn, sc around. Attach similarly to the left ear as mentioned above.
Arms
and hands (make 2)
Starting in brown,
leaving approx. 24” of yarn at front for sewing on later,
Row 1: ch 18, join
in round – 18
Row 2-16 (15
rounds): sc in ea – 18
Change to green,
Row 17: sc in 2,
2sc, rep around – 24
Row 18: sc in ea –
24
Row 19: [sc in 5,
2sc] 3 times, sc in 3, 2sc three times – 30 (can place a stitch marker here if
needed, to show where round begins)
For first finger,
Row 20: sc in 5.
Count from marker back 5 stitches and place your next sc there. (This will
close off 10 stitches to make a finger.) Sc in the remaining 4 stitches up to
the marker.
Row 21-23 (3
rounds): sc in ea – 10
Row 24: sc in 3,
sc2tog twice – 8
Row 25: sc in ea –
8
Row 26: sc2tog, sk
1, sc in next to close. TO.
For middle finger,
Reattach yarn in
the next unworked stitch (the sixth stitch from the beginning of the round).
Row 27: Sc in 5,
skip over to the other side and sc in the 5 going toward the first finger – 10
Row 28-31 (4 rows):
sc in ea – 10
Row 32: sc in 3,
sc2tog twice – 8
Row 33: sc in ea –
8
Row 34: sc2tog, sk
1, sc in next to close. TO.
For third finger,
Make like the first
finger, using up the remaining stitches.
Attaching yarn for the second
finger.
Stuff, lightly
poking some with a wooden dowel into the fingers. Arms shouldn’t be
overstuffed.
To close the arm,
pinch the sides together and sew up a seam. Then attach to the body at the
little line by the shoulders that were created when we stitched into the blo on
round 27 of the head/body part.
Feet
(make 2)
Note:
The toes of each foot will be worked very similarly to the hand and its
fingers.
In green, leaving a
long tail at the beginning of approximately 12-14” to attach later,
Rd 1: ch 16, join
Rd 2-8 (7 rds): sc
in ea – 16
Rd 9: 7 sc, 2sc in
next, rep again – 18
Rd 10: sc in ea –
18 (you may place marker now to mark the beginning of this round)
Toes:
Rd 11: sc in 3, sk
over to last 3 before the marker, sc in ea – 6
Rd 12-13 (2 rds):
sc in ea – 6
Rd 14: sc, sc2tog
twice – 4
Rd 15: sk 1, sc in
next – 4
TO.
Reattach yarn in
next stitch (the 4th stitch from the beginning of the round
originally), and do as described above. Make the third toe the same way.
Stuff lightly. Don’t want to overstuff, else the feet will bulge and he may have even more trouble sitting up.
To sew on feet,
pinch the tops of the feet together and sew a seam with the yarn needle. Attach
to the bottom of the “skirt insert”, where the outside corner seam of the foot
is at the outside of the insert, and the inside corner seam of the foot is at
the center of the circle. (See pics.) I then “pinned” the top of the foot down
by threading some yarn through the top and attaching it a little further up to
the skirt insert.
Robe
Using DK
white/offwhite,
Ch 34 + 1 to turn
Row 1: sc in ea – 34
Row 2: sc 5, ch 20.
Do not work next 5 stitches. (This will be the arm hole.) Instead, place next
stitch in the 11th st, and sc in next 13. Ch 20, leave next 5 st
unworked, place sc in 25th st, sc in last 4 – 24
Row 3-27 (25 rows):
sc in ea – 25
TO.
For hood,
Row 1: Reattach
yarn at 6th st from the end of the first row, sc in ea, leaving the
last 5 unworked. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: sc in 8, [2
sc, sc] 4 times, sc in 8 – 28
Row 3: sc in ea –
28
Row 4: sc in 8,
[2sc. Sc] 7 times, sc in 8 – 35
Row 5: sc in ea –
35
Row 6: sc in 8,
[2sc, sc] 9 times, 2sc, sc in 8 – 45
Row 7: sc in 8,
[2sc, sc] 12 times, 2sc, sc in 8 – 58
Row 8-15 (8 rows):
sc in ea – 58
Row 16: sc in 5,
[sc2tog, sc] 15 times, sc2tog, sc in 5 – 43
Row 17-24 (8 rows):
sc in ea – 43
Pull this seam
together/pinch it at the top hot dog style. This will make the top of the robe.
Without cutting yarn, I sc’d a seam along the top (you could also
cut the yarn and just sew it with a needle, whatever you want) and in the last
3 stitches, pulled them together (like a sc3tog).
For sleeves,
Rd 1-15 (16 rds): Reattach
yarn at armpit stitch and sc around – 28
Leaving a little
bit of a tail, maybe 6”, TO. Place Yoda’s arm in his sleeve, and then using the
tail of the yarn, pin the sleeve to the side of the robe so it tacks it
down/his arm doesn’t stick out straight. Knot it firmly so it is anchored
well/doesn’t come loose if you tug on the sleeve.
Optional: sc around
the outer edges of the hood/robe to give it a more finished look. I got a
little impatient and didn’t do this.
I sc’d a few
stitches closed at the front center of the robe. (See pics.)
That’s it! May the force be with you!
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