Thursday, January 16, 2014

Y-O-D-A Yoda

(This is available on Ravelry as a pdf. I posted it on here in case people came across the blog post and don't have a Ravelry account.) 

 

Materials:

Size C hook (2.5mm)

1 skein fingering 4-ply weight yarn in green (gauge is 6 sc per inch)

1 skein fingering 4-ply weight yarn in brown

1 skein DK weight yarn in white or off-white (for robe, eyes; gauge is 5 sc per inch)

2 15mm safety eyes

Yarn needle

Polyfiberfil stuffing (or stuffing of your choice)

Stitch marker (some may use this, some may not)

A little wooden dowel to stuff the fingers

 

 

Abbreviations:

Blo – back loops only

Ch - chain

Ea - each

Rep - repeat

Rd - round

R - row

Sc – single crochet

Sc2tog – single crochet 2 together (decrease stitch)

Sk - skip

Sl st – slip stitch

TO – Tie off/fasten off

MR – Magic Ring (amigurumi method, alternative is to ch2, sc in 2nd ch from the hook. I prefer MR, look it up on Youtube! J)

 

Notes:

·        This pattern is written using US terms.

·        The skill level is intermediate. Having made gloves or other animals that have toes may help.

·        Yoda’s body is worked in the round. His robe, eyelids, and ears are worked in rows, where you ch1 to turn after every row.

·        The eyes aren’t attached to the green part of his head, instead they will be attached to the whites of his eyes and then the white part will be sewn on. It does leave a bit of backing, but the indention it makes (if any) will give his face some shape anyway. I suppose it is up to you how you wish to attach the safety eyes (or maybe you even want to crochet the black part of the eyes!) so keep that in mind.

·        Please see the very last page for pictures. I put them all on one page for printing ease.

 


 

Head and Body

In green, MR 8.

Rd 1: 2sc in ea – 16

Rd 2: 1 sc, 2sc in next, rep around – 24

Rd 3: 2 sc, 2sc in next, rep around – 32

Rd 4: 3 sc, 2sc in next, rep around – 40

Rd 5: 4 sc, 2sc in next, rep around - 48

Rd 6: 5 sc, 2sc in next, rep around - 56

Rd 7: 6 sc, 2sc in next, rep around – 64

Rd 8-9 (2 rds): sc in each – 64

Rd 10: 6 sc, sc2tog, rep around – 56

Rd 11: sc in ea – 56

Rd 12: 5 sc, sc2tog, rep around – 48

Rd 13: 4 sc, sc2tog, rep around – 40

Rd 14-16 (3 rds): sc in ea – 40

Rd 17: 3 sc, sc2tog, rep around – 32

Rd 18: sc in ea – 32

Rd 19: 2 sc, sc2tog, rep around – 24

Rd 20: sc2tog around – 12

 

Switch to brown to now start his body,

Rd 21-22 (2 rds): sc in each – 12

Rd 23: 2sc in ea around – 24

Rd 24: 2 sc, 2sc in next, rep around – 32

Rd 25: 3 sc, 2sc in next, rep around – 40

Rd 26: 4 sc, 2sc in next, rep around – 48

Rd 27: in blo, sc in ea – 48

Rd 28-30 (3 rds): sc in ea – 48

Rd 31: 6 sc, sc2tog, rep around – 42

Rd 32-52 (21 rds): sc in ea – 42

Rd 53: 6 sc, 2sc in next, rep around – 48

Rd 54: 7 sc, 2sc in next, rep around – 54

Sl st to first st from previous round and TO.
 
 
 

 

Insert for skirt (will close off the torso)

In brown,

MR 6

Rd 1: 2sc in ea – 12

Rd 2: 1 sc, 2sc in next, rep around – 18

Rd 3: 2 sc, 2sc in next, rep around – 24

Rd 4: 3 sc, 2sc in next, rep around – 30

Rd 5: 4 sc, 2sc in next, rep around – 36

Rd 6: 5 sc, 2sc in next, rep around – 42

TO. Attach with yarn needle between the 4th and 5th row from the bottom of the “skirt”. Make sure to stuff liberally!

 


 

Eyes

In white,

Ch 3 + 1 to turn

Rd 1: sc in 2, 3sc in last, now rotate the work so you are now working on the other side of it (we are going to make an ovular shape), sc in next, 2sc in last – 8

Rd 2: sc in 3, 2sc in next, sc in 3, 2sc in last – 10

Rd 3: sc in 4, 3sc in next, sc in 4, 3sc in last. Sl st to next st. TO. Leave a tail for sewing on to head.

 

Attach the 15mm eyes to the center of the white piece. Attach white part to head where the top of it is around row 10 of the head and the bottom of it is around row 15 or 16 of the head. The white parts should be placed about 3 rows apart from each other. Make sure you make them centered!

 


Eyelids

In green,

Ch 10 + 1 to turn

Row 1: sc in 10, turn

Row 2: sk 1st st, sc in 7, sk next, sc in last – 8

Row 3-4 (2 rows): sc in ea – 8

 

To place, attach eyelid to the white part of the eye where part of it is covering the white and maybe even stretched over the black safety eye. (See pictures.) Sew on.

 

Ears

Note: The ears will be slightly different from each other. This is done on purpose. J

For the left ear, in green, leaving a long tail at front so you can attach the ear later,

Ch 6 + 1 to turn

Row 1-2 (2 rows): sc in ea – 6

Row 3: 2sc, sc in 3, sc2tog – 6

Row 4: sk 1st, sc in 4, 2sc – 6

Row 5: sc in ea – 6

Row 6: 2sc, sc in 3, sc2tog – 6

Row 7: sk 1st, sc in 2, sc2tog, 2sc – 5

Row 8: 2sc, sc in 2, sc2tog – 5

Row 9: sc2tog, sc in 3 – 4

Row 10: sc2tog twice – 2

Row 11-13 (3 rows): sc in ea – 2

Row 14: sk 1st, sc in last – 1

Without breaking yarn, sc around the ear, making sure you go in each row ending/beginning around. This will give it a more finished look. TO. Ears are kind of tricky to attach, so first stitch it on, then you may want to “pin” the upper part up by anchoring it to the head a row or two above so you can kind of “perk” them. I attached my ears where the top inside of the ear was around row 8 of the head, and the bottom of the ear was around row 13 or 14.

 

For the right ear, leaving a long tail at front for attaching the ear later,

Ch 6 + 1 to turn

Row 1: sc in ea – 6

Row 2: sc2tog, sc in 3, 2sc – 6

Row 3: 2sc, sc in 3, sk 1, sc in last – 6

Row 4: sc in ea – 6

Row 5: sc2tog, sc in 3, 2sc – 6

Row 6: 2sc, sc2tog, sc, sk 1, sc in last – 5

Row 7: sc2tog, sc in 2, 2sc – 5

Row 8: sc in 3, sc2tog – 4

Row 9: sc2tog twice – 2

Row 10-11 (2 rows): sc in ea – 2

Row 12: sc, 2sc – 3

Row 13: sc, sc2tog – 2

Row 14: sk 1, sc – 1

Without breaking the yarn, sc around. Attach similarly to the left ear as mentioned above.

 

Arms and hands (make 2)

Starting in brown, leaving approx. 24” of yarn at front for sewing on later,

Row 1: ch 18, join in round – 18

Row 2-16 (15 rounds): sc in ea – 18

Change to green,

Row 17: sc in 2, 2sc, rep around – 24

Row 18: sc in ea – 24

Row 19: [sc in 5, 2sc] 3 times, sc in 3, 2sc three times – 30 (can place a stitch marker here if needed, to show where round begins)

 

For first finger,

Row 20: sc in 5. Count from marker back 5 stitches and place your next sc there. (This will close off 10 stitches to make a finger.) Sc in the remaining 4 stitches up to the marker.

Row 21-23 (3 rounds): sc in ea – 10

Row 24: sc in 3, sc2tog twice – 8

Row 25: sc in ea – 8

Row 26: sc2tog, sk 1, sc in next to close. TO.

 

For middle finger,

Reattach yarn in the next unworked stitch (the sixth stitch from the beginning of the round).

Row 27: Sc in 5, skip over to the other side and sc in the 5 going toward the first finger – 10

Row 28-31 (4 rows): sc in ea – 10

Row 32: sc in 3, sc2tog twice – 8

Row 33: sc in ea – 8

Row 34: sc2tog, sk 1, sc in next to close. TO.

 

For third finger,

Make like the first finger, using up the remaining stitches.
 


Skipping over to other side to
make a finger. I will work the
stitches to the left of the hook
in this picture.

Attaching yarn for the second
finger.
 
 
Stuff, lightly poking some with a wooden dowel into the fingers. Arms shouldn’t be overstuffed.

 
To close the arm, pinch the sides together and sew up a seam. Then attach to the body at the little line by the shoulders that were created when we stitched into the blo on round 27 of the head/body part.

 

 

Feet (make 2)

Note: The toes of each foot will be worked very similarly to the hand and its fingers.

In green, leaving a long tail at the beginning of approximately 12-14” to attach later,

Rd 1: ch 16, join

Rd 2-8 (7 rds): sc in ea – 16

Rd 9: 7 sc, 2sc in next, rep again – 18

Rd 10: sc in ea – 18 (you may place marker now to mark the beginning of this round)

 

Toes:

Rd 11: sc in 3, sk over to last 3 before the marker, sc in ea – 6

Rd 12-13 (2 rds): sc in ea – 6

Rd 14: sc, sc2tog twice – 4

Rd 15: sk 1, sc in next – 4

TO.

 

Reattach yarn in next stitch (the 4th stitch from the beginning of the round originally), and do as described above. Make the third toe the same way.
 
Stuff lightly. Don’t want to overstuff, else the feet will bulge and he may have even more trouble sitting up.

To sew on feet, pinch the tops of the feet together and sew a seam with the yarn needle. Attach to the bottom of the “skirt insert”, where the outside corner seam of the foot is at the outside of the insert, and the inside corner seam of the foot is at the center of the circle. (See pics.) I then “pinned” the top of the foot down by threading some yarn through the top and attaching it a little further up to the skirt insert.

 
 
 

Robe

Using DK white/offwhite,

Ch 34 + 1 to turn

Row 1: sc in ea – 34

Row 2: sc 5, ch 20. Do not work next 5 stitches. (This will be the arm hole.) Instead, place next stitch in the 11th st, and sc in next 13. Ch 20, leave next 5 st unworked, place sc in 25th st, sc in last 4 – 24

Row 3-27 (25 rows): sc in ea – 25

TO.

 

For hood,

Row 1: Reattach yarn at 6th st from the end of the first row, sc in ea, leaving the last 5 unworked. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: sc in 8, [2 sc, sc] 4 times, sc in 8 – 28

Row 3: sc in ea – 28

Row 4: sc in 8, [2sc. Sc] 7 times, sc in 8 – 35

Row 5: sc in ea – 35

Row 6: sc in 8, [2sc, sc] 9 times, 2sc, sc in 8 – 45

Row 7: sc in 8, [2sc, sc] 12 times, 2sc, sc in 8 – 58

Row 8-15 (8 rows): sc in ea – 58

Row 16: sc in 5, [sc2tog, sc] 15 times, sc2tog, sc in 5 – 43

Row 17-24 (8 rows): sc in ea – 43

 

Pull this seam together/pinch it at the top hot dog style. This will make the top of the robe. Without cutting yarn, I sc’d a seam along the top (you could also cut the yarn and just sew it with a needle, whatever you want) and in the last 3 stitches, pulled them together (like a sc3tog).

 

For sleeves,

Rd 1-15 (16 rds): Reattach yarn at armpit stitch and sc around – 28

 

Leaving a little bit of a tail, maybe 6”, TO. Place Yoda’s arm in his sleeve, and then using the tail of the yarn, pin the sleeve to the side of the robe so it tacks it down/his arm doesn’t stick out straight. Knot it firmly so it is anchored well/doesn’t come loose if you tug on the sleeve.

 

Optional: sc around the outer edges of the hood/robe to give it a more finished look. I got a little impatient and didn’t do this.

 

I sc’d a few stitches closed at the front center of the robe. (See pics.)

 

That’s it! May the force be with you!





Monday, December 30, 2013

What a Square

Wanting a square of your own? This one will keep you company on a shelf or desk!




The cube measures about 2"sq.

Materials:
I used a C hook, I would have liked to use a D but I couldn't find mine (until afterward!)
Small amount of yarn of your choice, aran or worsted weight (Red Heart Super Saver or similar)
Small bit of black yarn
Yarn needle
Eyes or buttons or whatever you choose, these are 6mm eyes

Abbreviations used:
ch - chain
sl st - slip stitch
sc - single crochet
MR - magic ring (look on Youtube)
sc2tog - sc two stitches together (decrease)
2sc - place 2 sc in one stitch (increase)
flo - front loops only. Remember: the front loop is the loop that is on the front of the work. In other words, it is the loop farthest from your chest.

Notes:
  • This is written using US terms.
  • The square is worked where each side is one piece, and then seamed together using a sl st. If you don't want the "edge" you could probably just sew it together with a yarn needle.
  • The legs and hat are worked in the round. No joins are made, you just continue working in a circular fashion.
All right, now for the pattern!

Body of the Square:
Make 6 of the following:
Row 1: ch 10 + 1 to turn
Row 2-11 (10 rows): sc in each - 10
TO. I left long tails on a few so I wouldn't have to attach by using a different yarn, I just went right into seaming using the last square without cutting the yarn.

To seam the sides together, I used a sl st and holding the edges together, inserted my hook through both layers of the square to hold them together.



Legs:
Rd 1: MR 8
Rd 2: sc in each - 8
Rd 3: sc in 2, sc2tog twice, sc in 2 - 6
Rd 4: sc in 1, sc2tog twice, sc in last - 4
Rd 5-18 (14 rounds): sc in each - 4
TO and attach to square in the center, just under the edge.

Arms:
Rd 1: MR 8
Rd 2: sc in each - 8
Rd 3: sc in 2, sc2tog twice, sc in 2 - 6
Rd 4: sc in 1, sc2tog twice, sc in last - 4
Rd 5-14 (10 rounds): sc in each - 4
TO and attach to sides of the square near the halfway mark (or maybe just below).

Hat:
Rd 1: MR 8
Rd 2: sc in first, 2sc in next, repeat around - 12
Rd 3: sc in 2, 2sc in next, repeat around - 16
Rd 4-5 (2 rounds): sc in each - 16
Rd 6-8 (3 rounds): sc in flo around - 16
To make the brim, I tried something a little different. If you can't visualize what I'm doing, perhaps I could make a video (although my camera has a hard time focusing on something in my hands). Here's my attempt at explaining:
Insert your hook into the stitch from row 7, and down through the stitch from row 6 (you are leaving row 8 unworked). YO just like you would with a regular sc stitch, and pull through, yarning over and pulling through the loops like a regular sc. This does create a "bar" of yarn but it's not visible on the outside. This will give the brim a little bit of shape. See my pic below for one visual:


The black yarn doesn't help much to see, but you can kind of get the idea (maybe???).

After you finish stitching around the hat, TO leaving a tail so you can sew it onto your square later.

Moustachio:

Row 1: ch 4+1 to turn
Row 2: sc in 3, 2sc in 4th st
TO. Leave a tail to attach it to square. Sew on. I kinda made mine a little angled.

Tuck your tails and voila! A square has been born. :)