Thursday, January 22, 2015

Little Elephant

So, another one I concocted. It went through a successful test, and after fixing a few errors, finally got smoothed out. This one is also in .pdf form on Ravelry.com, which may make it easier for those on the go/that use tablets with pdf readers. Also, the pdf version is designed with a printer friendly approach in mind, so check it out! Look for it in a search using 'little elephant', or by my username, Malkyra. :)


NOTE: This pattern is considered intermediate, due to assembly.




Hope you enjoy! Let me know what you think/give me some feedback!

































Materials required:


1 skein aran weight yarn in color of your choice


Yarn needle


Poly fiberfil stuffing (or stuffing of your choice)


2 safety eyes, 9mm (or you can choose to sew them on afterward)


Size D or E hook (go smaller than recommended by yarn, to make tight stitches that stuffing won’t show through)


Stitch markers (optional)





Abbreviations used:


MR – Magic Ring (see Youtube). Alternatively, “ch 2, sc x number in 2nd chain from the hook” can also be used. However, I use MR because it pulls the hole tightly closed.


Sc – single crochet


Hdc – half double crochet


Sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease stitch)


Sc3tog – single crochet 3 stitches together (decrease by 2 stitch)


Sk – skip next stitch


Rep – repeat


Ch – chain


Sl st – slip stitch


St - stitch


TO – tie off/fasten off





Pattern Notes:


  • The  body of this pattern is worked continuously in the round in the amigurumi style. There is no joining the rounds. After making the four arms, you will work from the head down the body, adding in the limbs as you go. See the last page for pictures for your reference.
  • This pattern is in US terms.


The pattern




Arms and Legs: (Make 4)


Note: it is important to make these first, as we are going to add them in as we do the body.


Rd 1: MR 5 – 5


Rd 2: 2sc in each – 10


Rd 3: sc, 2sc in next, rep around – 15


Rd 4-23 (20 rounds): sc in each – 15


Lightly stuff.


Rd 24: sc, sc2tog, rep around – 10


Fold the opening flat, and sc a seam along the top. This will make 5 stitches. See pictures for reference. TO. Tuck in tails.





Body:


Rd 1: MR 6 – 6


Rd 2: 2sc in each – 12


Rd 3: sc, 2sc in next, rep around – 18


Rd 4: sc in 2, 2sc in next, rep around – 24


Rd 5: sc in 3, 2sc in next, rep around – 30


Rd 6: sc in 4, 2sc in next, rep around – 36


Rd 7: sc in 5, 2sc in next, rep around – 42


Rd 8: sc in 6, 2sc in next, rep around – 48


Rds 9-11 (3 rds): sc in each – 48


Rd 12: sc in 6, sc2tog, rep around – 42


Rd 13: sc in 5, sc2tog, rep around – 36


Rd 14: sc in each – 36


Rd 15: ch 8, sk 8 stitches, sc in 9th and on around – 28 + 8 ch Note: this is going to leave a ‘gap’ for us to work the trunk in later. See pictures for reference. I placed a stitch marker on the first st of the round for future reference when I go back to put on the trunk.





The head, with the opening left unworked for the trunk
to be worked later.



Rd 16: sc in each, being careful to work the chains to get right count – 36


Rd 17: sc in 4, sc2tog, rep around – 30


Rd 18: sc, sc2tog, rep around – 20


If you are using safety eyes, place them 14 stitches apart between rows 11 and 12, centering it on the ‘gap’ of the trunk. See pictures for reference. Lightly stuff head.


Rd 19: sc in each – 20


Rd 20: sc in 2, sc2tog, rep around – 10


Sc in two stitches to get to the center of the throat, and place marker. This is going to be the beginning of the next round.


Rd 21-22 (2 rounds): sc in each – 10


Rd 23: sc, 2sc in next, rep around - 15  


Rd 24: sc, place one arm’s seam over stitches and sc through both the body and the arm’s next five stitches (see pictures), sc in 4, place next arm and do the same, sc in the last st of the body – 15




Sewing on the arm, working both the body stitches and
the arm's seam. In other words, place your hook through both
pieces and sc like you would normally. This works the arm
into the body.





Rd 25: sc in 2, 2sc, rep around – 20


Rd 26: sc in each – 20


Rd 27: sc in 3, 2sc in next, rep around – 25


Rd 28: sc in each – 25


Rd 29: sc in 4, 2sc in next, rep around – 30


Rd 30-34 (5 rounds): sc in each – 30


Rd 35: sc in 2, 2sc, rep around – 40


Rd 36-37: sc in each – 40


Rd 38: sc in 4, 2sc in next, rep around – 48


Rd 39-42 (3 rounds): sc in each – 48


Rd 43: sc in 9, place leg and sc it to the body in the next 5 sts, sc in 29, place next leg, sc in last 5 – 48


Stuff lightly and continue stuffing as you go.


Rd 44: sc, 2sctog, rep around ending with an sc in last – 32


Rd 45: sc2tog around – 16


Rd 46: sc2tog around – 8


Rd 47: sc2tog around – 4


Rd 48: sk 1, sl st to next, TO.




Going back to finish nose:


Reattach yarn at right upper edge of gap, or where you placed your stitch marker. (See photo for reference.)


Rd 1: sc 14, 2sc in next 3 stitches, sc 3 – 23


Rd 2: sc in each – 23


Rd 3: sc in 2, sc3tog, sc in 3, sc3tog, sc in 13 – 19


Rd 4-5: sc in each – 19


Rd 6: [sc2tog, sc] 3 times, sc in 10 – 16


Rd 7-8: sc in each – 16


Rd 9: [sc2tog, sc] 2 times, sc in 10 – 14


Rd 10-13 (4 rounds): sc in each – 14


Rd 14: sc in 2, sc2tog, sc in 5, sc2tog, sc in 3 – 12


Rd 15-17 (3 rounds): sc in each – 12


Rd 18: sc in 4, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in 4 – 10


Make sure to keep stuffing lightly as you go.


Rd 19-21 (3 rounds): sc in each – 10


Rd 22: sc in 2, sc2tog four times – 6


Rd 23-24: sc in each – 6


Rd 25: sk 2, sl st in 3rd to close. TO. Tuck in tail.





Tail:


Row 1: Ch 8 + 1 to turn - 9


Row 2: Sc in 2nd ch from the hook and in next 6, 3sc in last, turn work so that you will then be working up the other side (think of it like an ‘oval’ shape) and sc 7 up the other side. TO. Attach to backside where you like. For the ‘hair’, cut several pieces of yarn and knot them onto the tip.





Ears: (Make 2)


This is worked in rows. You will chain one to turn at the end of each row. Leave a long tail at the beginning so you can sew on to the head later,


Row 1: ch 6 + 1 to turn – 7


Row 2: sc in 2nd ch from the hook and in next 5 – 6


Row 3: 2sc, sc in 4, 2sc – 8


Row 4: sc in each – 8


Row 5: 2sc, sc in 6, 2sc – 10


Row 6: sc in each – 10


Row 7: 2sc, sc in 8, 2sc – 12


Row 8: sc in each – 12


Row 9: 2sc, sc in 10, 2sc – 14


Row 10: sc in each – 14


Row 11: sl st in 3, sc in next, hdc in 6, sc, sl st in last 3 – 14


Without breaking yarn, sc down the edge, across the beginning chains (I even placed 2sc in the first and last of the chain/row 1 so that it didn’t pucker as much on the corners), and on up the other side to give it a ‘finished’ look. See picture for reference. I did not go back over Row 11’s stitches, merely TO’d.




Place the ears 1 round above eyes (round 10) and about 6 columns back from the eyes. Or whatever looks best to you.





Ear with unfinished edge.



Ear with finished edge.








Tusks: (optional)


Rd 1: MR 3 – 3


Rd 2: 2sc in each – 6


Rd 3-4: sc in each – 6


Sl st to the first st of the previous round and TO. Attach right up against the trunk.


Voila! Elephant is ready for play!

Monday, September 15, 2014

Labrador Girl (aka 'brog')

So... I had started this project up back in early spring, and it languished in a bag, forgotten, joining the ranks of dust bunnies and such... And then I rediscovered it recently. So, I set out to finish.

I started her up in some cotton that I was trying to use up. Probably not the best choice for a doll, for as I continue to make such things over the years, I get more picky about the stuffing showing through/the stitches not being tight. You can see in the pictures that she's a little 'holey'. That's ok.

The other thing about this is that she was supposed to be a yellow labrador retriever. ...She ended up looking like a rehash of Whinnie the Poo. But that's ok. She can be a bear...or dog... or both? Brog? Anyone? ...Bueller?

Anyway, hope you enjoy it, if you've come across this blog and she caught your eye. :)






Materials needed:

o   C hook (2.75mm)

o   DK weight yarn in three colors (yellow, blue, and white)

o   Berocco Pure Pima DK was used in this project
o   You can really use whatever yarn you want, worsted with the same size hook would make it look ‘neater’ and probably what I’d do if I made her all over again!

o   Scrap black yarn

o   Yarn needle

o   4 buttons (1/2”)

 

Abbreviations used:

o   Ch – chain

o   Hdc – half double crochet

o   MR – magic ring

o   Sc – single crochet

o   Sl st – slip stitch

o   Ssc – shallow single crochet

o   Instead of placing your stitch as normal, go into the vertical bars between the stitches. This stitch can be found on youtube, in stitch dictionaries, and also on this blog where she has conveniently posted pictures regarding this: http://knotsewcute.blogspot.com/2013/03/how-to-do-shallow-single-crochet.html

o   Rep – repeat

o   Sc2tog – decrease stitch

o   Shallow sc – a shallow version of single crochet, as defined in “crochet stitches” book

o   Sk – skip a stitch

o   TO – tie off

 

Pattern notes:

o   This pattern is written in US terms.

o   The body of the puppy is worked in the round; don’t join or turn. The only things worked flat are the dress and the ears.

o   If you have any questions, feel free to contact me! Username is Malkyra on Ravelry.com! For other free patterns, check out my patterns, or take a gander at my blog, cantoocrochet.blogspot.com.

 


 

Body

Beginning with the head,

In yellow,

Rd 1: MR 8 – 8

Rd 2: sc, 2sc, rep around – 12

Rd 3: sc in 2, 2sc, rep around – 16

Rd 4: sc in 3, 2sc, rep around – 20

Rd 5: sc in 4, 2sc, rep around – 24

Rd 6: sc in 5, 2sc, rep around – 28

Rd 7: sc in 6, 2sc, rep around – 32

Rd 8-9: sc in each – 32

Rd 10: sc in 7, 2sc, rep around – 36

Rd 11-14 (4 rounds): sc in each – 36

Rd 15: sc in 7, sc2tog, rep around – 32

Rd 16: sc in 6, sc2tog, rep around - 28

Rd 17: sc in 5, sc2tog, rep around – 24

Rd 18: sc in 4, sc2tog, rep around – 20

Rd 19: sc in 3, sc2tog, rep around – 16

Rd 20: sc in each – 16

Rd 21: sc in 3, 2sc, rep around – 20

Rd 22: sc in each – 20

Rd 23: sc in 4, 2sc, rep around – 24

Rd 24: sc in each – 24

Rd 25: sc in 5, 2sc, rep around – 28

Rd 26: sc in each – 28

Rd 27: sc in 6, 2sc, rep around – 32

Rd 28: sc in each – 32

Rd 29: sc in 7, 2sc, rep around – 36

Rd 30: sc in each – 36

Rd 31: sc in 8, rep around – 40

Rd 32: sc in 9, rep around – 44

Rd 33: Sc in 10, rep around – 48

Change to blue,

Rd 34-37 (4 rounds): sc in each – 48

Rd 38: sc in 10, sc2tog, rep around – 44

Rd 39: sc in 9, sc2tog, rep around – 40

Rd 40: sc in 8, sc2tog, rep around – 36

Rd 41: sc, sc2tog, rep around – 24

Place a marker here to help you visualize the rounds. You are going to make the two legs now, one leg at a time. The legs will be 12 inches around.

Rd 42: sk 12, sc in 13th and on around – 12

Now just work these 12 stitches for the leg, leaving the rest unworked. We’ll come back to it later.

Rd 43-47 (5 rounds): sc in each – 12

Change to yellow,

Rd 48-57 (10 rounds): sc in each – 12

Now to shape the foot,

Rd 58: sc, sc2tog twice, sc twice, 2sc in 4, sc in last – 14

Rd 59: sc in 2, sc2tog twice, sc twice, sc 2sc in 4, sc in last – 16

Rd 60: sc in each – 16

Rd 61: sc in 2, 2sc in 4, sc in 4, sc2tog twice, sc in 2 – 14

Rd 62: sc, 2sc in 6, sc in 3, sc2tog twice, sc in 2 – 20

Rd 63: sc in each – 20

Rd 64: [sc, sc2tog] six times, sc in last two – 14

Rd 65: [sc, sc2tog] twice, sc around – 12

Rd 66: sc, 2sctog, rep around – 8

Rd 67: sc2tog around – 4

Rd 68: sc2tog twice – 2

Rd 69: sk 1, sl st in next to close. TO. Tuck in tail.

 

Now, to go back to the second leg. Reattach in blue at the crotch stitch (the front of the doll is facing you).

Continue from Rd 43 to end at Rd 60.

 

Arms (make 2)

Rd 1: MR 4 – 4

Rd 2: 2sc in each – 8

Rd 3: sc, 2sc, rep around – 12

Rd 4-23 (20 rounds): sc in each – 12

Pinch the top together like a seam, and sc 6 stitches across to close it. Leave a tail to attach it to the body. Attach the arms at Round 21 of the body. I attached mine with 3 stitches between the arms on the front side.

 

Nose

Rd 1: MR 4 – 4

Rd 2: 2sc in each – 8

Rd 3: sc, 2sc, rep around – 12

Rd 4: sc in each – 12

Rd 5: sc in 7, 2sc in 4 – 16

Rd 6-7: sc in each – 16

Attach at rows 12-13. This can be tricky for a beginner to get the attachment to look ‘neat’ around the edge of the nose/as you stitch it to the face. Planet June has some good instructions and videos on how to attach pieces neatly. Might want to check this link out: http://www.planetjune.com/blog/joining-amigurumi/

 

Ears (make 2)

Ch 1 + 1 to turn

From here on out, chain 1 to turn after each row.

Row 1: 2sc  - 2

Row 2: 2sc in 2 – 4

Row 3-5 (3 rows): sc in each – 4

Row 6: 2sc, sc in 2, 2sc – 6

Row 7: sc in each – 6

The ear is now shaped. To give it a finished look, sc around the edge in each stitch, placing 3sc in the ‘tip’ of the ear (the row 1 stitch).

TO. Attach to head. I pinned the tip of the ear down to get it to ‘flop’.

 

Tail

Rd 1: MR 5 – 5

Rd 2: [sc, 2sc] twice, sc in last – 7

Rd 3-7 (5 rounds): sc in each – 7

Rd 8: [sc in 2, 2sc] twice, sc in last – 9

Rd 9: [sc in 3, 2sc] twice, sc in last – 11

Rd 10-18 (9 rounds): sc in each – 11

TO. Attach to body.

 

Dress

Note: This dress uses a shallow single crochet stitch (ssc). See Notes on first page for description.

In blue,

Ch 24 + 1 to turn,

Row 1: sc in each – 24

Row 2: ch 3, sk 3, sc in 21 (this makes a button hole) – 21 + 3 ch

Row 3: [sc in 4, 2sc in next] four times, sc in 4 – 28

Row 4: sc in 6, 2sc, rep around – 32

Row 5: sc in 7, 2sc, rep around – 36

Row 6: sc in 8, 2sc, rep around – 40

Row 7: sc in 9, 2sc, rep around – 44

Row 8: [sc in 7, 2sc] five times, sc in 4 – 48

Row 9: sc in each – 48

Switch to white,

Row 10-13 (4 rows): ssc in each – 48

Switch to blue,

Row 14: ssc in 4, ssc2tog, rep around – 40

Row 15: ssc in each – 40

Switch to white,

Row 16-19 (4 rows): ssc in each – 40

Row 20: [sc, hdc] in first stitch, [hdc, sc] in next stitch. Repeat this across. TO. Tuck in all tails.

 

Shoulder Straps (make 2)

In blue,

Ch 15 + 1 to turn

Row 1: sc in each – 15

Row 2: sc, ch 2, sk 2, sc in 12. TO.

Attach white at the beginning chain. Hdc in each, placing 2hdc in corner edges. Be careful to hdc in the ch’s made for the button hole. Tuck in all tails.
 
Attach straps to dress, pinning them in place the dress is on the doll to know where to place your buttons.
 
Using black yarn, embroider on the nose and eyes. I used a 'satin stitch' for the nose, although maybe a heart shape would look more doggy. Whatever! Here's a link, in case you aren't sure what I'm talking about or haven't done this before: http://sublimestitching.com/pages/how-to-satin-stitch
 
Enjoy!