NOTE: This pattern is considered intermediate, due to assembly.
Hope you enjoy! Let me know what you think/give me some feedback!
Materials required:
1 skein aran weight yarn in color of your choice
Yarn needle
Poly fiberfil stuffing (or stuffing of your choice)
2 safety eyes, 9mm (or you can choose to sew them on afterward)
Size D or E hook (go smaller than recommended by yarn, to make tight
stitches that stuffing won’t show through)
Stitch markers (optional)
Abbreviations used:
MR – Magic Ring (see Youtube). Alternatively, “ch 2, sc x number in 2nd
chain from the hook” can also be used. However, I use MR because it pulls the
hole tightly closed.
Sc – single crochet
Hdc – half double crochet
Sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together (decrease stitch)
Sc3tog – single crochet 3 stitches together (decrease by 2 stitch)
Sk – skip next stitch
Rep – repeat
Ch – chain
Sl st – slip stitch
St - stitch
TO – tie off/fasten off
Pattern Notes:
- The body of this pattern is worked continuously in the round in the amigurumi style. There is no joining the rounds. After making the four arms, you will work from the head down the body, adding in the limbs as you go. See the last page for pictures for your reference.
- This pattern is in US terms.
The pattern
Arms and Legs: (Make 4)
Note:
it is important to make these first, as we are going to add them in as we do
the body.
Rd 1: MR 5 – 5
Rd 2: 2sc in each –
10
Rd 3: sc, 2sc in
next, rep around – 15
Rd 4-23 (20
rounds): sc in each – 15
Lightly stuff.
Rd 24: sc, sc2tog,
rep around – 10
Fold the opening flat, and sc a seam along
the top. This will make 5 stitches. See pictures for reference. TO. Tuck in
tails.
Body:
Rd 1: MR 6 – 6
Rd 2: 2sc in each –
12
Rd 3: sc, 2sc in
next, rep around – 18
Rd 4: sc in 2, 2sc
in next, rep around – 24
Rd 5: sc in 3, 2sc
in next, rep around – 30
Rd 6: sc in 4, 2sc
in next, rep around – 36
Rd 7: sc in 5, 2sc
in next, rep around – 42
Rd 8: sc in 6, 2sc
in next, rep around – 48
Rds 9-11 (3 rds):
sc in each – 48
Rd 12: sc in 6,
sc2tog, rep around – 42
Rd 13: sc in 5,
sc2tog, rep around – 36
Rd 14: sc in each –
36
Rd 15: ch 8, sk 8
stitches, sc in 9th and on around – 28 + 8 ch Note: this is going to leave a ‘gap’ for us to work the trunk in later.
See pictures for reference. I placed a stitch marker on the first st of the
round for future reference when I go back to put on the trunk.
The head, with the opening left unworked for the trunk to be worked later. |
Rd 16: sc in each,
being careful to work the chains to get right count – 36
Rd 17: sc in 4,
sc2tog, rep around – 30
Rd 18: sc, sc2tog,
rep around – 20
If you are using safety eyes, place them 14
stitches apart between rows 11 and 12, centering it on the ‘gap’ of the trunk.
See pictures for reference. Lightly stuff head.
Rd 19: sc in each –
20
Rd 20: sc in 2,
sc2tog, rep around – 10
Sc in two stitches to get to the center of
the throat, and place marker. This is going to be the beginning of the next
round.
Rd 21-22 (2
rounds): sc in each – 10
Rd 23: sc, 2sc in
next, rep around - 15
Rd 24: sc, place
one arm’s seam over stitches and sc through both the body and the arm’s next
five stitches (see pictures), sc in 4, place next arm and do the same, sc in
the last st of the body – 15
Sewing on the arm, working both the body stitches and the arm's seam. In other words, place your hook through both pieces and sc like you would normally. This works the arm into the body. |
Rd 25: sc in 2,
2sc, rep around – 20
Rd 26: sc in each –
20
Rd 27: sc in 3, 2sc
in next, rep around – 25
Rd 28: sc in each –
25
Rd 29: sc in 4, 2sc
in next, rep around – 30
Rd 30-34 (5
rounds): sc in each – 30
Rd 35: sc in 2,
2sc, rep around – 40
Rd 36-37: sc in
each – 40
Rd 38: sc in 4, 2sc
in next, rep around – 48
Rd 39-42 (3
rounds): sc in each – 48
Rd 43: sc in 9,
place leg and sc it to the body in the next 5 sts, sc in 29, place next leg, sc
in last 5 – 48
Stuff lightly and continue stuffing as you
go.
Rd 44: sc, 2sctog,
rep around ending with an sc in last – 32
Rd 45: sc2tog
around – 16
Rd 46: sc2tog
around – 8
Rd 47: sc2tog
around – 4
Rd 48: sk 1, sl st
to next, TO.
Going back to finish nose:
Reattach yarn at right upper edge of gap, or
where you placed your stitch marker. (See photo for reference.)
Rd 1: sc 14, 2sc in
next 3 stitches, sc 3 – 23
Rd 2: sc in each –
23
Rd 3: sc in 2,
sc3tog, sc in 3, sc3tog, sc in 13 – 19
Rd 4-5: sc in each
– 19
Rd 6: [sc2tog, sc]
3 times, sc in 10 – 16
Rd 7-8: sc in each
– 16
Rd 9: [sc2tog, sc]
2 times, sc in 10 – 14
Rd 10-13 (4
rounds): sc in each – 14
Rd 14: sc in 2, sc2tog,
sc in 5, sc2tog, sc in 3 – 12
Rd 15-17 (3
rounds): sc in each – 12
Rd 18: sc in 4,
[sc2tog] 2 times, sc in 4 – 10
Make sure to keep stuffing lightly as you
go.
Rd 19-21 (3
rounds): sc in each – 10
Rd 22: sc in 2, sc2tog
four times – 6
Rd 23-24: sc in
each – 6
Rd 25: sk 2, sl st
in 3rd to close. TO. Tuck in tail.
Tail:
Row 1: Ch 8 + 1 to
turn - 9
Row 2: Sc in 2nd
ch from the hook and in next 6, 3sc in last, turn work so that you will then be
working up the other side (think of it like an ‘oval’ shape) and sc 7 up the
other side. TO. Attach to backside where you like. For the ‘hair’, cut several
pieces of yarn and knot them onto the tip.
Ears: (Make 2)
This is worked in rows. You will chain one to turn at the end of
each row. Leave a long tail at the
beginning so you can sew on to the head later,
Row 1: ch 6 + 1 to
turn – 7
Row 2: sc in 2nd
ch from the hook and in next 5 – 6
Row 3: 2sc, sc in
4, 2sc – 8
Row 4: sc in each –
8
Row 5: 2sc, sc in
6, 2sc – 10
Row 6: sc in each –
10
Row 7: 2sc, sc in
8, 2sc – 12
Row 8: sc in each –
12
Row 9: 2sc, sc in
10, 2sc – 14
Row 10: sc in each
– 14
Row 11: sl st in 3,
sc in next, hdc in 6, sc, sl st in last 3 – 14
Without breaking
yarn, sc down the edge, across the beginning chains (I even placed 2sc in the
first and last of the chain/row 1 so that it didn’t pucker as much on the
corners), and on up the other side to give it a ‘finished’ look. See picture
for reference. I did not go back over Row 11’s stitches, merely TO’d.
Place the ears 1
round above eyes (round 10) and about 6 columns back from the eyes. Or whatever
looks best to you.
Ear with unfinished edge. |
Ear with finished edge. |
Tusks: (optional)
Rd 1: MR 3 – 3
Rd 2: 2sc in each –
6
Rd 3-4: sc in each
– 6
Sl st to the first
st of the previous round and TO. Attach right up against the trunk.
Voila! Elephant is ready for play!
Voila! Elephant is ready for play!
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